The following are common
misconceptions of tree care. Learning these will help you, the consumer, when it comes to hiring a tree service.
Do not hire a company that tries to sell you on any tree care listed below as it is unneccessary and a waste of time and money.
Number
1 - Newly planted trees should be securely staked in order to develop a stable root system and a strong trunk.
Some tree services may try to tell you to stake your new trees, don't do it without consulting
a certified arborist. Staking is sometimes necessary, however it can have a negative effect on your tree. Unlike
staked trees, unstaked trees are able to develop a larger root system and improve the shape of the trunk. The worst
damage rendered on a staked tree is trunk damage from the staking wires or ties. If it does become necessary to stake
your tree, remove staking materials after one year to avoid such irreparable damage.
Number
2 - Newly planted trees should be heavily pruned to make up for loss of roots.
The best way for a tree to become established is if it
is not pruned. Pruning reduces the loss of water that evaporates from the leaves, but a full crown is absolutely necessary
so the tree can produce the food and plant hormones that help with root growth. The bigger the crown, the stronger and
larger the root system. Be extremely careful when it comes to pruning, there are very particular
seasons and processes for pruning. It is important to learn about it so as not to be lured into unneccessary or improper
pruning.
Number 3 - To encourage
healing when removing a branch from a tree, the final cut should be flush with the stem.
Not true.
Tree wounds do not "heal" as human wounds, which regenerate tissue in a similar fashion of that which was removed.
When trees have a wound, they compartmentalize it by creating woundwood over the affected area. If flush cutting occurs,
the "branch collar" is removed, creating an even larger wound. It is important to minimize the wound by leaving
a "branch collar", a small amount of the cut branch. This prevents the loss of the parent branch tissue
and chance of decay throughout the tree.
Number 4 - Some types of fast-growing, weak-wooded trees such as silver maple, should be "topped"
to make them less hazardous to landscape.
Although topping these trees may seem like a good idea initially,
it will lead to more danger in the future. Topping of trees boosts the growth of twigs below the cuts. These twigs
or shoots lead to branches with weak attachments, futhermore decay spreads inside the branches and stubs that were topped.
The tree will regain its height within 2-5 years, but will be more hazardous than before because of the weak attachments and
possible decay. Instead of topping, we suggest, thinning, cabling or possibly removal and replacing the hazardous tree
with a more suitable species.
Number 5 - Pruning certain
species of trees in the spring will stress out the tree causing health problems or "bleeding".
Some trees
like maples and birches will seem like they are "bleeding" because of loss of sap if pruned in the early spring.
However, this sort of bleeding does not hurt the tree. For the most part, routine pruning can be done any time of the
year. However, the worst time to prune is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring. The very best time is
when the tree is dormant, November through January. Pruning at this time of year will maximize flowering for the
following year.
Number 6 - The crown of a tree should be cut back to compensate for damage or
loss of root system commonly due to construction.
This is an extremely common recommendation with no scientific grounding. It
has been found that trees left unpruned following root loss actually respond better than trees that are pruned. If you
think about it, it makes more sense to leave the tree be as the more branches it has, the more food the tree will produce
in the leaves. It is likely that the tree will lose some branches, if it survives at all, but it is better to allow
the tree to decide which ones.
* On a final note. If you're
still unsure about who to hire, just be sure to follow these guidelines: look for ISA certification (if consulting an arborist
specifically) or membership in associations such as ISA, ask for proof of insurance, license, and bond, be weary of anyone
going door-to-door offering too good to be true prices on tree work, and don't be afraid to ask for references. If a
tree service denies proof of any of these things, they're not a reputable company.
